NorthStar25718534419
25 février 2025
Rarely does a dream come true. About thirty years ago, an idea took hold. I imagined staying at a Japanese ryokan with an open-air private onsen bath somewhere in nature during winter, hopefully with snow on the ground. The stars aligned in more ways than I imagined at Beniya Mukayu. Located a few miles from the Kagaonsen Shinkansen Rail Station, Beniya Mukayu is a short couple of hours from Tokyo but a world apart from the urban hustle and stress. The Zen enveloped me as I stepped out of the taxi. Beniya Mukayu is nestled up a hill surrounded by the forest; sounds of melting snow and a slight breeze could be heard as I was escorted into the architecturally planned inn. I inhaled, taking in the design of every piece of furniture, every window, every angle, all with purpose and all with artistry. I was overtaken with emotion and teared up. It was more than I could imagine. After an introduction to the inn and a cup of tea, we were escorted to our lodgings, an expansive Japanese-style room with a deck, separate bedroom, large bathroom, and private onsen bath filled with this area's warm healing mineral waters. Ours had hydrotherapy jets. We did not want to leave the room, and the television was ignored. Beniya Mukayu supplied us with kimonos, slippers, and a wrap in our respective sizes, and soon we were immersed in the way of the ryokan. It was better than therapy. The inn had two or three libraries for relaxation, public baths separated for men and women by time; kaiseki dinners served nightly, and excellent breakfasts. Service was in the ryokan tradition: polite, honorable, and caring. Pilar, from Patagonia, Argentina, helped guide us during our too-short two-day stay. She was wonderful. The owners, a charming couple, led us through a tea ceremony on our first day, an apt introduction to the zen of Beniya Mukayu. As I sat in my onsen bath, freezing rain falling around me, all cares drifted away. I was one with myself, too content with life. Beniya Mukayu does that. I must return.
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