Ume Yamazoe

About an hour and 40 minutes east from Kansai airport is this under the radar village Yamazoe, which means attached to, or against the Mountain. Nearly six years ago, I had an amazing stay at the nearby Sasayuri-ann, so came back again here when I heard Yamazoe’s village chief house has been transformed into a rustic and intimate three rooms sanctuary. Hidden away between a couple of golf courses, the town is remote and undiscovered, and looks like it has barely changed in decades (in a good way). Arrived by taxi and was greeted by a red haired fellow that turned out to be an American born and raised in Japan! Was touched they brought him in even though it was just to check me in, as there weren’t any other guests that night. I spent the night in “room” Mebuki, which had a second bedroom upstairs. After a locavore meal with seasonal veggies grown by the elderly neighbors, all washed down with local sake and homemade liquor, I ended the night cocooned in the room’s wooden outdoor bathtub as I have always loved the contrast of soaking in a tub during perishingly cold weather. After a night of solid sleep, my bed was the perfect spot to watch a breathtaking sunrise over the village, the stillness interrupted only by birds, followed by a Finnish sauna session in their wood burning cabin. My only gripe (not really): their website is very confusing, it tells you on one hand there is a parking lot for guests (which there is), then it tells you please don’t try to drive to the hotel on your own. Turns out that there are narrow roads (common in this part of town) and especially the last bit to the hotel which is narrow, uphill and requires a turn. I took their advice and left my car at Nabari station but next time I will self-drive.